Textile Dictionary ,WORDS S
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1. SAILCLOTH: Any heavy, strongly made woven canvas of cotton, linen, jute, polyester, nylon, aramid, etc., that's used for sails. Laminated fabrics also are finding use during this market. Sailcloth is employed for attire , particularly sportswear.
2. SANDWICH BLEND: a way of preparing fiber mixtures by layering them horizontally in alternating layers with all elements within the proper proportion. Vertical sections are cut and fed to subsequent machine within the process, where blending is effected.
3. SANFORIZED : A trademark of Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc., denoting a controlled standard of shrinkage performance. Fabrics bearing this trademark won't shrink quite 1% because they need been subjected to a way of compressive shrinkage involving feeding the material between a stretched blanket and a heated shoe. When the blanket is allowed to retract, the material is physically forced to comply.
4. SAPONIFICATION: Specifically in reference to manufactured fibers, saponification is that the process of removing part or all of the groups from acetate or triacetate fiber, leaving regenerated cellulose.
5. SARAN FIBER: A manufactured fiber during which the fiber-forming substance is any long chain
synthetic polymer composed of a minimum of 80% by weight of vinylidene chloride units (-CH2-CCl2-). Saran fiber has excellent resistance to sunlight and weathering and is employed in furniture , upholstery, and carpets.
6. SASE: Acronym for stress at specified elongation; the strain experienced by a yarn or cord at a
given elongation.
7. SATEEN: A cotton fabric made during a weave .
8. SATIN WEAVE: one among the essential weaves, plain, satin, and twill. The face of the material consists almost completely of warp or filling floats produced within the repeat of the weave. The points of intersection are distributed evenly and widely separated as possible. Satin-weave fabric features a characteristic smooth, lustrous surface and features a considerably greater number of yarns within the set of threads, either warp or filling, that forms the face than within the other set.
9. SATURATION: 1. the utmost intensity or purity of a color. If the colour is as brilliant as possible, it's at saturation; if the colour is subdued or grayed, it's dull, weak, and low in intensity. 2. The upper limit concentration of a solute during a solvent, i.e., no more solute are often dissolved at a hard and fast temperature and pressure.
10. SATURATION VALUE: the utmost amount of dye which will be absorbed by a textile fiber under defined conditions.
11. SAXONY: 1. A high-grade fabric for coats, made up of Saxony Merino wool. 2. A soft woolen with fancy yarn effects, utilized in sport-coat fabric. 3. A highly twisted worsted knitting yarn. 4. A term describing a cut-pile carpet having highly twisted, evenly sheared, medium-length pile yarns.
12. SALLOPED SELVAGE: a cloth defect consisting of an abrupt, narrow place along the selvage. Principal cause is that the failure of the clip on the tenter frame to interact or hold the material .
13. SCHAPPE: A yarn from partly degummed silk waste.
14. SCORCHING: The tendering of a fiber surface by heat so on change the colour and texture of the surface.
15. SCOURING: An operation to get rid of the sizing and tint used on the warp yarn in weaving and, generally , to wash the material before dyeing.
16. SCREW FEEDS: Feed systems during which the action of the screw generates pressure that causes flow. The system usually consists of a container with a closely fitting screw unit.
17. SCRIM: 1. a light-weight , open-weave, coarse fabric; the simplest qualities are made with two-ply yarns. Cotton scrim usually comes in white, cream, or ecru and is employed for window curtains and as backing for carpets. 2. Fabric with open construction used as base fabric within the production of coated or laminated fabrics.
18. SCROOP: The sound of rustle or crunch that's characteristic of silk. Scroop may be a natural property of silk, but could also be induced in other fabrics to a degree by various treatments.
19. SCULPTURED: A term describing a carpet with areas of contrasting depth produced by mixing cut pile and loops.
20. SEAMING: Joining the overlap of two pieces of cloth , usually near their edges.
21. SEAMLESS: A term that describes a tubular knit fabric without seams, e.g., seamless hosiery.
22. SEAM MARK: a specific sort of pressure mark within the finished fabric. it's produced during finishing operations by the thickness of the seam wont to join pieces for processing.
23. SEAM SLIPPAGE: A defect consisting of separated yarns occurring when sewn fabrics pull apart at the seams. Seam slippage is more susceptible to occur in smooth-yarn fabrics produced from manufactured filament yarns.
24. SEAM WELDING: Any stitchless procedure for joining fabrics supported the utilization of thermoplastic resins or the direct welding of thermoplastic materials. Seam welding is an alternate to standard needle-and-thread seaming operations that's extremely popular within the nonwoven field.
25. SECANT MODULUS: The ratio of change in stress to vary in strain between two points on a stress-strain diagram, particularly the points of zero stress and breaking stress.
26. SECONDARY BACKING: A layer of fabric , usually woven jute, polypropylene, vinyl, or latex foam, laminated to the underside of a carpet to enhance body and dimensional stability.
27. SECTION BEAM: 1. A large, flanged roll upon which warp yarn is wound at the beam warper in preparation for slashing. 2. Small flanged or unflanged beams assembled side-by-side on the shaft of a warp beam for further processing.
28. SECTION MARK: a cloth defect consisting of marks running warpwise in an evenly repeating pattern, caused by the improper setting of sections in silk system (or indirect) warping.
29. SEERSUCKER: Lightweight fabric, made from cotton or manufactured fiber, having crinkled stripes made by weaving a number of the warp threads slack et al. tight. Woven seersucker is costlier than imitations made by chemical treatment.
30. SELF-TWIST YARN: An inherently twist-stable, two-ply structure having a ply twist that's alternately S- and Z-directed along the yarn.
31. SELVAGE or SELVEDGE: The narrow fringe of woven fabric that runs parallel to the warp. it's made with stronger yarns during a tighter construction than the body of the material to stop raveling. a quick selvage encloses all or a part of the picks, and a selvage isn't fast when the filling threads are cut at the material edge after every pick.
32. SEQUESTRANT: Any compound which will inactivate a metallic ion by forming a water-soluble complex during which the metal is held during a nonionizable form. This leads to prevention of the standard precipitation reactions of the metal.
33. SERGE: Any smooth-faced cloth made with a two-up and two-down twill .
34. SERICIN: Silk gum. The gelatinous protein that cements the fibroin filaments during a silk fiber. it's removed within the process called degumming.
35. SERVED YARN: In aerospace textiles, a reinforcing yarn like graphite or glass around which two different yarns are wound, i.e., one within the Z direction and one within the S direction, etc., for cover or compaction of the yarn bundle.
36. SET MARK: a cloth defect consisting of narrow bars or bands across the complete width of the material which will appear either as a decent , loose, or corduroy effect caused by loom stops improperly reset by the weaver. Set marks are sometimes caused by the weaver ripping out filling yarn then not properly adjusting the pick wheel to get the right relation between the fell of the material and therefore the reed.
37. SET POINT: An input in process control that defines the specified value or range of values of the variable that's being controlled.
38. SET YARNS: False-twist yarns stabilized to supply bulk.
39. SEYDEL CONVERTER: Tow-to-top processing equipment. Seydel combines the prestretching and breaking process in one machine.
40. S-FINISHING: A finishing process applied to acetate and triacetate fabrics employing a caustic soda solution to offer surface saponification; i.e., the fiber “skin” is converted to cellulose. It improves the hand and reduces the tendency to accumulate a static charge.
41. SHADECLOTH: A plain-weave cotton or linen fabric that's heavily sized and is usually given oil treatment to form it opaque. the material is employed for curtains and shades.
42. SHADED FILLING: A defect consisting of a bar running across the material caused by a difference in appearance of the filling yarn, and occurring at a quill change or knot.
43. SHAFT MARK: a cloth defect characterized by variety of floating ends, usually caused by a broken harness strap on the loom.
44. SHAG CARPET: A loosely tufted carpet construction with cut pile 1 to five inches long and with greater than normal spacing between tufts.
45. SHANTUNG: Plain-weave fabric with unevenly ribbed surface and crisp texture.
46. SHARKSKIN: 1. A hard-finished, twill fabric, woolen or worsted, made from simple weaves with a two-color arrangement of warp and filling yarns. 2. A plain-weave sportswear fabric made from dull-luster acetate or triacetate yarns.
47. SHEARING: ``A dry finishing operation during which projecting fibers are mechanically cut or trimmed from the face of the material . Woolen and worsted fabrics are nearly always sheared. Shearing is additionally widely employed on other fabrics, especially on napped and pile fabrics where the quantity varies consistent with the specified height of the nap or pile. For flat-finished fabrics like gabardine, a really close shearing is given.
48. SHEATH-CORE FIBERS: Bicomponent fibers of either two polymer types, or two variants of an equivalent polymer. One polymer forms a core and therefore the other surrounds it as a sheath.
49. SHED: A path through and perpendicular to the warp within the loom. it's formed by raising some warp threads by means of their harnesses while others are left down. The shuttle passes through the shed to insert the filling.
50. SHEDDING: 1. The operation of forming a shed in weaving. 2. A loss of nominal length staple at any process during a staple yarn plant.
51. SHEERS: Transparent, lightweight fabrics of various constructions and yarns, especially those of silk and made fibers. Examples are chiffons, some crepes, georgette, and voile.
52. SHIER: a brief length of one pick that appears to be cut out of the plane of the material .
53. SHINER: a comparatively short streak caused by a lustrous section of a filament yarn. The principal cause is excessive tension applied to a yarn during processing.
54. SHOE FOLD: a fashion of folding fabric. The piece is folded from both ends into twelve or sixteen folds. The length of the fold depends upon the length of the piece.
55. SHORT-CUT STAPLE: Staple fiber but 0.75-ingh long. Typically utilized in wet-laid nonwoven processes to form fabrics, or as reinforcement in plastics, concrete, asphalt, and other materials.
56. SHOT: In woven pile floor coverings, the amount of filling yarns per row of tufts.
57. SHREDDING: The separation of compressed fibers in pulp sheets before acetylation in acetate manufacture.
58. SHRINKAGE: Widthwise or lengthwise contraction of a fiber, yarn, or fabric, usually after wetting a redrying or on exposure to elevated temperature.
59. SHRINKAGE FORCE: The force generated by thermoplastic materials once they are subjected to elevated temperatures.
60. SHUTTLE: A boat-shaped device, usually made from wood with a metal tip that carries filling yarns through the shed within the weaving process. it's the foremost common weft-insertion device. The shuttle holds a quill, or pirn, on which the filling yarn is wound. it's equipped with an eyelet at one end to regulate rate. The filling yarn is furnished during the weaving operation.
61. SHUTTLE CHAFE MARK: a cloth defect that's usually seen as groups of short, fine lines across the material , often running for a few distance within the piece and typically within the same area. Although these marks run within the direction of the filling, they're actually caused by the shuttle rubbing across and damaging the warp ends, producing a dull, chalky appearance.
62. SHUTTLELESS LOOM: A loom during which some device other then a shuttle is employed for weft insertion.
63. SILICONE: one among a gaggle of polymeric organic silicon compounds obtained as oils, greases, or plastics and applied to textile material as water- and heat-resistant lubricants and finishes.
64. SIMULATED SPUN YARNS: Filament yarns that are modified to possess aesthetics almost like those of spun yarns. Simulated small stuff have looped or hairy surfaces.
65. SINGEING: the method of burning off protruding fibers from yarn or fabric by passing it over a flame or heated copper plates. Singeing gives the material a smooth surface and is important for fabrics that are to be printed and for fabrics where smooth finishes are desired.
66. SINGLING: A yarn defect caused by the breaking of 1 or more strands during a plying operation with resulting unevenness within the finished product.
67. SINKER: In weave design, a blank square indicating a filling thread over a warp thread at the purpose of intersection.
68. SINTERING: Forming a bonded mass or fiber by heating the constituents of the mass or fiber without melting.
69. SISAL: a robust , white, bast produced from leaves of the Agave plant, which is found in Central America, West Indies , and Africa. Sisal is employed chiefly for cordage and cord .
70. SIZE MARK: a cloth defect that consists of a rough or frosted spin caused by uneven application or drying of the dimensions .
71. SIZING: 1. A generic term for compounds that are applied to warp yarn to bind the fiber together and stiffen the yarn to supply abrasion resistance during weaving. Starch, gelatin, oil, wax, and made polymers like polyvinyl alcohol, polystyrene, polyacrylic acid, and polyacetates are employed. 2. the method of applying sizing compounds. (Also see SLASHING.) 3. the method of weighing sample lengths of yarn to work out the count.
72. SKEIN: endless strand of yarn or cord within the sort of a collapsed coil. it's going to be of any specific length and is typically obtained by winding a particular number of activates a reel under prescribed conditions. The circumference of the reel on which yarn is wound is typically 45 to 60 inches.
73. SKEWNESS: the space measured parallel to and along a selvage between the purpose at which a filling yarn meets this selvage and a perpendicular to the selvage from the purpose at which an equivalent filling yarn meets the opposite selvage. Skewness could also be expressed directly in inches or as a percentage of the width of the material at the purpose of measurement.
74. SLACK END: An end woven under insufficient tension.
75. SLACK MERCERIZATION: A process for producing stretch in cellulosic fabrics.
76. SLACK PICK: one filling yarn woven under insufficient tension.
77. SLACK SELVAGE: A self-descriptive fabric defect caused by incorrect balance of fabric structure between the bottom and selvage or by the selvage ends being woven with insufficient tension.
78. SLASHER: A machine wont to apply size to the warp ends, while transferring the warp yarns from section beams to the loom beam.
79. SLASHING: A process of sizing warp yarns on a slasher.
80. SLEAZY: Thin, lacking firmness, open-meshed; usually describes poor-grade fabrics.
81. SLEEVING: A braided, knit, or woven product or fabric in tubular or cylindrical form that's but 4 inches in breadth (i.e., 8 inches in circumference).
82. SLEY: the amount of warp yarns per inch during a woven cloth on or off the loom.
83. SLIDE WASTE: A yarn defect that's similar in appearance to a slub. It consists of a mass of fiber encircling the yarn end and may be slid freely along the top .
84. SLIPPAGE: Sliding or slipping of the filling threads over the warp ends (or vice versa), which leaves open spaces within the fabric. Slippage results from a loose weave or unevenly matched warp and filling.
85. SLIVER: endless strand of loosely assembled fibers without twist. Sliver is delivered by the cardboard , the comber, or the drawing frame. the assembly of sliver is that the initiative within the textile operation that brings staple fiber into a form which will be drawn (or reduced in bulk) and eventually twisted into a small stuff .
86. SLUB: A yarn defect consisting of a lump or thick place on the yarn caused by lint or small lengths of yarn adhering thereto . Generally, in filament yarn, a slub is that the results of broken filaments that have stripped back from the top to which they're attached.
87. SLUB CATCHER: A mechanical or device designed to assist within the detection and removal of slubs or neps in yarns, usually during coning.
88. SLUB YARN: Any sort of yarn that's irregular in diameter; the irregularity could also be purposeful or the results of error.
89. SLUG: A thick place during a yarn or a bit of lint entangled in yarn, cord, or fabric.
90. SLURRY: A watery or solvent suspension; e.g., titanium oxide mixed with water for addition to polymers.
91. SMASH: 1. a comparatively large hole in fabric characterized by many broken warp ends and floating picks. One cause is that the breaking of 1 or both harness straps, permitting the harness to drop and escape warp ends. 2. The breaking of the many yarn ends during a beaming operation, usually as a results of mechanical failures.
92. SNAG: A pulled thread in knits. it's within the wale direction in warp knits and within the course direction in weft knits.
93. SNARL: a brief length of warp or filling yarn that has twisted on itself due to lively twist or insufficient tension. The snarling may occur during or before the weaving process.
94. SOAKING: Treatment of rayon yarns during a lubricating and sizing solution preparatory to hard twisting.
95. SOAP: The detergent obtained by the formation of a sodium or potassium salt of a carboxylic acid or mixture of fatty acids.
96. SOFTENER: 1. A product designed to impart a soft mellowness to the material . Examples are glucose, glycerine, tallow, or anybody of variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. 2. A substance that reduces the hardness of water by removing or sequestering the calcium and magnesium ions. 3. A substance wont to reduce friction during mixing and processing when dry powders are added to polymers.
97. SOFTENING POINT: The temperature at which substances without a pointy freezing point change from viscous to plastic flow.
98. SOIL BURIAL TEST: A test of resistance of textile material to certain microorganisms present in soil. The samples are buried in soil for an extended period, then removed and measured for strength loss.
99. SOILING: The staining or smudging of textile materials resulting from the deposit of dirt, oil undesirable dye, etc.
100. SOURING: Any treatment of textile materials in dilute acid. Its purpose is that the neutralization of any alkali that's present.
101. SPANDEX FIBER: A manufactured fiber during which the fiber-forming substance may be a long chain synthetic polymer composed of a minimum of 85% of a segmented polyurethane. CHARACTERISTICS: Spandex is lighter in weight, more durable, and more supple than conventional elastic threads and has between two and 3 times their restraining power. Spandex is extruded during a multiplicity of fine filaments which immediately form a monofilament. It are often repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking and still recover instantly to its original length. It doesn't suffer deterioration from oxidation as is that the case with fine sizes of rubber thread, and it's not damaged by body oils, perspiration, lotions, or detergents.END USES: Spandex is employed in foundation garments, bathing suits, hose, and webbings. SPECIFIC GRAVITY: Ratio of the mass of a cloth to the mass of an equal volume of water at 4°C. The range for contemporary fibers isn't too great and depends to some extent on the liquid used as an immersant in measurements, due to fiber swelling and of possible absorption of liquid into fiber voids.
102. SPECKING: The removal of burrs, knots, and other objects that impair the finished appearance of woolens and worsteds.
103. SPECKY: A term wont to describe dyed woolen fabric with specks of undyed substance on the face. The specks are often removed by carbonizing or covered by speck dyeing.
104. SPECTROGRAPH: A spectroscope equipped with a camera or another device for recording the spectrum.
105. SPECTROMETER: An instrument for identifying and comparing materials by the dispersing of sunshine and therefore the study of the spectra formed.
106. SPECTROPHOTOMETER: An instrument wont to measure the transmission or reflectance of sunshine as a function of wavelength.
107. SPIN-DRAWING: 1. The reduction of roving during spinning by a roller drafting mechanism almost like that used on the roving frame. 2. Combined spinning and drawing in one operation in melt-spun fibers.
108. SPINNERET: A metal disc containing numerous minute holes utilized in manufactured fiber extrusion. The spinning solution or melted polymer is forced through the holes to make the fiber filaments.
109. SPIRAL YARNS: Specialty yarn made by winding heavier, slackly twisted yarn around a finer yarn with a tough twist to offer a slubby appearance.
110. SPLIT-DRAFT METIER: An extrusion cabinet for dry spinning during which the drying medium (hot air) is introduced between the jet and therefore the yarn outlet and flows in both directions.
111. SPLIT END: 1. A defect in fabric caused by breakage of a number of the singles yarns during a plied warp yarn. 2. A defect in manufactured filament yarn caused by breakage of a number of the filaments.
112. SPLITTING: 1. within the processing of tow, a defect during which the integrity of opened tow is disturbed by separation or division into two or more segments longitudinally. Splitting are often continuous or intermittent, long or short term. 2. In slashing, the separation of sized yarn ends before takeup on the slasher beam.
113. SPOOL: A flanged wooden or metal cylinder upon which yarn, thread, or wire is wound. The spool has an axial hole for a pin or spindle utilized in winding.
114. SPRING NEEDLE: A textile machine needle with an extended , flexible hook, or beard, that permits the hook to be closed by an action referred to as pressing in order that the loops are often remove . The hook springs back to its original position when the presser bar is removed.
115. SPUN-BONDED PRODUCTS: Nonwoven fabrics formed by filaments that are extruded, drawn, then laid on endless belt. Bonding is accomplished by several methods like by hot roll calendaring or by passing the online through a saturated-steam chamber at an elevated pressure.
116. SPUN FABRIC: a cloth made up of staple fibers which will contain one or a mix of two or more fiber types.
117. SPUNLACED FABRIC: A nonwoven fabric produced by entangling fibers during a repeating pattern to make a robust fabric freed from binders.
118. SPUN YARN: 1. A yarn consisting of staple fibers usually bound together by twist. 2. A meltspun fiber before it's drawn.
119. SQUEEGEE: The portion of a screen-printing apparatus consisting of a blade that forces the print paste through the screen onto the material .
120. SQUEEZE ROLLS: Rolls wont to apply pressure for removal of water or chemicals from fabric.
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