Textile Dictionary ,WORDS D
D
1.
DAMASK: A firm, glossy, Jacquard-patterned fabric
2.
DAMPENING
(IN TIRE CORD): The relative ability
3. DECATING MARK: A crease mark impression extending filling wise across the fabric near the beginning or end of the piece.
4.
DECATIZING: A finishing process
5. DECITEX: One tenth of a tex.
6. DECORTICATING: A mechanical process for separating the woody matter from the bast fiber of such plants as ramie and hemp.
7. DEEP-DYEING VARIANTS: Polymers that have been chemically modified to increase their dye ability. Fibers and fabrics made therefore can be dyed to very heavy depth.
8.
DEFECTS: A general term that refers to some flaw
9. DEFORMATION: A change in the shape of a specimen, e.g., an increase in length produced as the result of the application of a tensile load or force. Deformation may be immediate or delayed, and the latter may be recoverable or no recoverable.
10. DEGRADATION: The loss of desirable physical properties by a textile material as a result of some process or physical/chemical phenomenon.
11. DEGREE OF ESTERIFICATION: The extent to which the acid groups of terephthalic and/or other acids have reacted with diols to form ester groups in polyester polymer production.
12. DEGREE OF POLYMERIZATION: Refers to the number of monomer units in an average polymer. It can be controlled during processing and affects the properties of the end product.
13. DEGUMMING: The removal of gum from silk by boiling in a mildly alkaline solution. Usually accomplished on the knit or woven fabric.
14. DELAYED DEFORMATION: Deformation that is time-dependent and is exhibited by material subjected to a continuing load; creep. Delayed deformation may be recoverable following removal of the applied load.
15. DELUSTERING: Subduing or dulling the natural luster of a textile material by chemical or physical means. The term often refers to the use of titanium dioxide or other white pigments as delustrants in textile materials.
16. DELUSTRANT: A substance that can be used to dull the luster of a manufactured fiber. Often a pigment such as titanium dioxide.
17. DENIER: A weight-per-unit-length measure of any linear material. Officially, it is the number of unit weights of 0.05 grams per 450-meter length. This is numerically equal to the weight in grams of 9,000 meters of the material. Denier is a direct numbering system in which the lower numbers represent the finer sizes and the higher numbers the coarser sizes. In the U.S., the denier system is used for numbering filament yarns (except glass), manufactured fiber staple (but not spun yarns), and tow. In most countries outside the U.S., the denier system has been replaced by the tex system. The following denier terms are in use:
18.
DENIM: A firm 2 x 1 or 3 x 1 twill-weave fabric, often having a whitish tinge, obtained by using white filling yarns with colored warp yarns. Heavier weight denims, usually blue or brown, are used for dungarees, work clothes, and men’s and women’s sportswear. Lighter weight denims with softer finish are made
19. DENT: On a loom, the space between the wires of a reed.
20. DETERGENT: A synthetic cleaning agent containing surfactants that do not precipitate in hard water and have the ability to emulsify oil and suspend dirt.
21. DEWPOINT: The temperature at which a gas begins to condense as a liquid at a given pressure.
22. DIAL: In a circular-knitting machine, a circular steel plate with radially arranged slots for needles. A knitting machine equipped with both a dial and a cylinder (q.v.) can produce double-knit fabrics.
23. DIMENSIONAL RESTORABILITY: The ability of a fabric to be returned to its original dimensions after laundering or dry cleaning, expressed in percent. For example, 2% dimensional restorability means that although a fabric may shrink more than this in washing, it can be restored to within 2% of its original dimensions by ordinary home pressing methods.
24.
DIMITY:
25. DIP: 1. Immersion of a textile material in some processing liquid. The term is usually used in connection with padding or slashing process. 2. The rubber compound with which tire cords and other in-rubber textiles are treated to give improved adhesion to rubber.
26. DIRECT ESTERIFICATION: In the production of polyethylene terephthalate, the process in which ethylene glycol is reacted with terephthalic acid to form bis-β-hydroxyethyl terephthalate monomer with the generation of water as a by-product.
27.
DIRECTIONALLY
ORIENTED FABRICS: Rigid fabric constructions containing inlaid warp or fill yarns held
28. DOBBY: 1. A mechanical attachment on a loom. A dobby controls the harnesses to permit the weaving of geometric figures. 2. A loom equipped with a dobby. 3. A fabric woven on a dobby loom.
29. DOCTOR BLADE: A metal knife that cleans or scrapes the excess dye from engraved printing rollers, leaving dye paste only in the valleys of engraved areas.
30.
DOFF:
31. DOFFER: 1. the last or delivery cylinder of the cardboard from which the sheet of fibers is removed by the doffer comb. 2. An operator who removes full bobbins, spools, containers, or other packages from a machine and replaces them with empty ones.
32. DOFFER COMB: A reciprocating comb, the teeth of which oscillate on the brink of the cardboard clothing
of the doffer to strip the web of fibers from the cardboard .
33. DOFFING: The operation of removing full packages, bobbins, spools, roving cans, caps, etc., from a machine and replacing them with empty ones.
34. DONEGAL: A tweed fabric with colorful slubs woven in, donegal is employed for suits and coats.
35. DOTTED SWISS: A sheer cotton or cotton blend fabric with small dot motif, dotted swiss is employed for dress goods, curtains, baby clothes, etc.
36. DOUBLE-CLOTH CONSTRUCTION: Two fabrics are woven within the loom at an equivalent time, one fabric on top of the opposite , with binder threads holding the 2 fabrics together. The weave on the two fabrics are often different.
37. DOUBLE END: Two ends woven together during a fabric. A double end could even be intentional for cloth styling, or accidental, during which case a cloth defect results.
38. DOUBLE-KNIT FABRIC: a cloth produced on a circular-knitting machine equipped with two sets of latch needles situated at right angles to each other (dial and cylinder).
39. DOUPPIONI: A rough or irregular yarn made up of silk reeled from double or triple cocoons.
Fabrics of douppioni have an irregular appearance with long, thin slubs. Douppioni-like yarns are now being spun from polyester and/or rayon staple.
40. DOWNDRAFT METIER: A dry-spinning machine during which the airflow within the drying cabinet is within an equivalent direction because the yarn path (downward).
41. DOWNGRADE: In quality control, the lowering of the grade and/or value of a product thanks to the presence of defects.
42. DOWNTWISTING: A process for inserting twist into yarn during which the yarn passes downward from the supply package (a bobbin, cheese, or cone) to the revolving spindle. The package or packages of yarn to be twisted are positioned on the creel, and thus the ends of yarn are led downward through individual guides and stop motions to the positively driven feed roll and from there to the revolving take-up package or bobbin, which inserts twist.
43. DRAFT: In weaving, a pattern or plan for drawing-in.
44. DRAPE: A term to clarify the way a cloth falls while it hangs; the suppleness and skill of a cloth to create graceful configurations.
45. DRAW-BACK: A crossed end; an end broken during warping that when repaired wasn't free or was tied in with an adjacent end or ends overlapping the broken end. the top draws or pulls back when unwound on the slasher.
46. DRAWING: 1. the method of attenuating or increasing the length per unit weight of laps, slivers, slubbings, or rovings. 2. the recent or cold stretching of continuous filament yarn or tow to align and arrange the crystalline structure of the molecules to realize improved tensile properties.
47. DRAWING-IN: In weaving, the tactic of threading warp ends through the eyes of the heddles and thus the dents of the reed.
48. DRAWN TOW: A zero-twist bundle of continuous filaments that has been stretched to understand molecular orientation. (Tows for staple and tiny stuff application are usually crimped.)
49. DRILL: a strong denim-like material with a diagonal 2 x 1 weave running toward the left selvage. Drill is typically called khaki when it's dyed that color.
50. DRY CLEANING: Removing dirt and stains from fabrics or garments by processing in organic solvents (chlorinated hydrocarbons or mineral spirits).
51. DRY FILLING: the appliance of finishing chemicals to dry fabric, usually by padding.
52. DRYING CYLINDERS: Any of variety of heated revolving cylinders for drying fabric or yarn. they're arranged either vertically or horizontally in sets, with the quantity varying according to the material to be dried. they're often internally heated with steam and Teflon coated to prevent sticking.
53. DUCK: A compact, firm, heavy, plain weave fabric with a weigh of 6 to 50 ounces per sq yd . Plied yarn duck has plied yarn in both warp and filling. Flat duck features a warp of two single yarns woven together and a filling of either single or plied yarn.
54. DULL: A term applied to try to made fibers that are chemically or physically modified to reduce their normal luster. Matte; opposite of bright; low in luster.
55. DUMBELLS: A defect frequently seen in wet-formed nonwoven fabrics; an unusually long fiber will become entangled with groups of regular-length fibers at each end, thus producing a dumbbell-shaped clump.
56. DYES: Substances that add color to textiles. they're incorporated into the fiber by reaction , absorption, or dispersion. Dyes differ in their resistance to sunlight, perspiration, washing, gas, alkalis, and other agents; their affinity for various fibers; their reaction to cleaning agents and methods; and their solubility and method of application. Various classes and kinds are listed below. [Also see COLOUR INDEX (CI).]
57. Acid Dyes: a category of dyes used on wool, other animal fibers, and a few manufactured fibers.
Acid dyes are seldom used on cotton or linen since this process requires a mordant. Acid dyes are widely used on nylon when high wash fastness is required. In some cases, even higher wash fastness are often obtained by after treatment with fixatives.
58. Aniline Dyes: Dyes derived chemically from aniline or other pitch derivatives.
59. Anthraquinone Dyes: Dyes that have Anthraquinone as their base and therefore the group
(>C=O) because the chromophore. Anthraquinone-based dyes are found in most of the synthetic dye classes.
60. Azo Dyes: Dyes characterized by the presence of an azo radical (-N=N-) because the chromophore. Azo dyes are found in many of the synthetic dye classes.
61. Basic Dyes: A class of positive-ion-carrying dyes known for their brilliant hues. Basic dyes are composed of large-molecule, water-soluble salts that have a direct affinity for wool and silk and can be applied to cotton with a mordant. The fastness of basic dyes on these fibers is very poor.
Basic dyes are also used on basic-dyeable acrylics, modacrylics, nylons, and polyesters, on which they exhibit reasonably good fastness.
62. Direct Dyes: A class of dyestuffs that are applied directly to the substrate in a neutral or alkaline bath. They produce full shades on cotton and linen without mordanting and can also be applied to rayon, silk, and wool. Direct dyes give bright shades but exhibit poor wash fastness. Various after treatments are used to improve the wash fastness of direct dyes, and such dyes are referred to as “after treated direct colors.”
63. Disperse Dyes: A class of slightly water-soluble dyes originally introduced for dyeing acetate and usually applied from fine aqueous suspensions. Disperse dyes are widely used for dyeing most of the manufactured fibers.
64. Fiber-Reactive Dyes: A type of water-soluble anionic dye having affinity for cellulose fibers. In the presence of alkali, they react with hydroxyl groups in the cellulose and thus are liked with the fiber. Fiber-reactive dyes are relatively new dyes and are used extensively on cellulosic when bright shades are desired.
65. Sulfur Dyes: A class of water-insoluble dyes that are applied in a soluble, reduced form from a sodium sulfide solution and are then deoxidized to the insoluble form on the fiber. Sulfur dyes are mainly used on cotton for economical dark shades of moderate to good fastness to washing and light. They generally give very poor fastness to chlorine.
66. Vat Dyes: A class of water-insoluble dyes which are applied to the fiber in a reduced, soluble form (leuco compound) and then deoxidized to the original insoluble form. Vat dyes are among the most resistant dyes to both washing and sunlight. They are widely used on cotton, linen rayon, and other cellulosic fibers.
67. DYE SITES: Functional groups within a fiber that provide sites for chemical bonding with the dye molecule. Dye sites may be either in the polymer chain or in chemical additives included in the fiber.
68. DYNAPOINT PROCESS: A continuous computer-controlled process for manufacturing tufted carpets with intricate patterns from undyed yarn.
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