Fabric Production Calculation (part-2)

 A complete guideline to calculations relating to yarn and cloth and all processes of weaving.

It includes reed count, reed width, Maximum EPI for a particular count, weave density, crimp percentage, cloth cover factor etc.

• Reed Count
• No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count.
• Reed Count = EPI/(1 + Weft crimp %age)
• Reed Width
• Reed Width = Cloth Width *(100+ weft crimp %age)/100
• Crimp Percentage
• Crimp %age = {(Warp length – Cloth length)/Cloth Length}* 100
• Crimp %age = {(Warp width – Cloth width)/Cloth width}* 100
• Cloth Cover Factor
• 
• 
• Cloth Cover Factor = Wp.C.F +Wt.C.F. – {(Wp.C.F. – Wt.C.F)/28}

1. Maximum EPI for particular count

• 
• 
• other design = (Ends /Repeat * 1/Yarn Diametre)/ (No of intersections/repeat ends/repeat)
• 

1. Warp Density

• 
• 
• = <350

• Weave Density = 50+{(Warp Density – 100) * F.D – 100} /{(Weft Density – 100)* F.D – 100}
• Effective Weave Density = W. D x K of loom width x K of Design
• = < 72

Wp / filling – K	Loom Width – K	Weave Design – K
Cotton = 1.00	140 cm – 0.99	Plain1 / 1 = 1.00
Polyester/Cotton = 1.03	180 cm – 1.00	Twill 1/2 = 0.87
Viscose Filament = 1.17	190 cm – 1.01	Matt, Gabardine 2/2 = 0.82
Polyester Filament = 1.22	220 cm – 1.02	Drill 1/3 = 0.77
	250 cm – 1.08	Satin 1/4 = 0.69
	330 cm – 1.15
	360 cm – 1.20

To change the count and the number of thread/inch, keeping the same denseness of fabric

To change the count without altering the denseness of the fabric

EPI in Exp.cloth = (EPI in exp.Cloth^2/EPI in given cloth) * count in given cloth

To change the EPI without altering the denseness of the fabric

Warp requirement to weave the cloth

• Warp weight in grams /metre = {(Total Ends * 1.0936 * 453.59 * crimp %)/(840 * count)} * wastage %
• Weft weight in grams /metre ={(R.S. in inches * 453.59 * PPI)/(840 * count)} * wastage % * crimp %
• Cloth length in metres with given weft weight=( weft weight in kgs * weft count * 1848 * 0.9144)/(PPI * R.S in inches)

 

For silk and Polyester

• Warp weight in grams /metre ={(Total Ends * count (Denier) )/9000} * wastage % * crimp %
• Weft weight in grams /metre = {(R.S in inches * count(Denier)* PPI)/9000}* wastage % * crimp %

Allowance for count in bleached and Dyed fabric

1.Count becomes 4%

2. FinerDyed counts become max 6% Coarser